Captivating Tahiti and her 118 attendant islands and atolls, all radiating with iridescent green and turquoise, make up the country of French Polynesia, a French overseas territory that is spread across an area of the South Pacific that is as big as western Europe. The earliest explorers thought they had found paradise on earth when they came across these picture-perfect islands, and today's travellers are no less entranced by the volcanic mountain peaks clothed in lush tropical vegetation and exotic flowering plants, the coral reefs, warm waters, white sand beaches and stunning turquoise lagoons. Add to this the warm hospitality offered by the friendly locals, a collection of world-class resorts, spas, fine restaurants, nightclubs, vibrant markets and enticing boutiques and one would imagine the islands would be over-run with exuberant vacationers. It is surprising then, to discover that there are more hotel rooms in a typical Las Vegas hotel than on all the islands of French Polynesia, and that Hawaii receives more visitors in 10 days than Tahiti does in a year. This means it is possible to tuck a tiare (Tahiti's national fragrant white flower) behind your ear, pack your pareu (sarong) and swimsuit, and head off to find your own idyllic piece of Polynesian paradise, which will doubtless have a melodic ancient name meaning something like 'island of the long sky' or 'place of the double rainbow'.

Essentials:

Time: LGMT 10 (The Marquesas Islands are half an hour ahead of the rest of French Polynesia).

Electricity: The electric current in most hotels is 110 or 220 volts

Language: French and Tahitian are the official languages; English is widely spoken.

Communications: The country code for French Polynesia is +689 and the outgoing code is 00, followed by the relevant country code (e.g. 0027 for South Africa). City/area codes are not in use. There are public phone booths on all the islands, most operated with phone cards called 'Telecartes', available from the airport, some bars, magazine stands and the post offices. A GSM 900 mobile network provides limited coverage on Tahiti. United States cell phones will not operate on the islands. Internet access is available in the larger hotels and resorts and the main tourist islands all have Internet cafes.

Climate in Tahiti: French Polynesia enjoys tropical, warm and humid weather all year round, averaging eight hours of sunshine per day over a year. The islands experience a rainy season, generally between late October and early March, when cloudy skies and brief heavy rain showers can occur. The rest of the year rain is rare and temperatures constantly high, tempered sometimes by refreshing breezes. The water temperature ranges from 79°F to 84°F (26°C to 29°C) making for extremely pleasant bathing all year round.

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BORA BORA

Satellite pictures of the tiny island of Bora Bora from hundreds of miles above the earth show it to be almost glowing, its dark green centre surrounded by a coral necklace and an iridescent aquamarine lagoon. Little wonder that this is the dream destination for celebrities, honeymooners and lovers who live in splendour in the island's luxurious spas and resorts, but enjoy privacy and anonymity on magical secluded beaches.

Visitors touch down on an airstrip (built by U.S. troops during World War II) sited on a motu (islet) in the middle of the beautiful crystal-clear lagoon, and are ferried to the main island. The lagoon forms the centre of activities for holidaymakers, being the stage for numerous adventures from shark-feeding excursions and swimming with giant turtles, to scuba diving, snorkelling, jet-skiing, glass-bottom boat cruises, descending into the 'lagoonarium', kite-sailing, picnicking on a motu and so on. Bora Bora also offers plenty of cultural and historical attractions, like taking a day trip to a Marae (ancient temple), exploring the World War II canon and relics, browsing the art and craft galleries, watching a Tahitian dance ceremony and perhaps even braving a tattoo (the skin art apparently originated here).


RANGIROA

Part of the Tuamotus archipelago, Rangiroa is the world's second largest atoll, actually just a ring of low land encircling a vast crystal-clear deep turquoise lagoon. The island, about an hour's flight from Tahiti, offers among other things world-class scuba diving. The water is so clear that visibility is estimated at least 150ft (46m), and the temperature remains a constant 80°F (27°C). The stretch where the lagoon opens to the ocean, known as Tiputa Pass, is particularly rich in marine life and is recognised as one of the world's greatest shark dive locations. Even snorkellers can appreciate close up views of the various species of sharks and schools of dolphins that gather in the pass.

Accommodation options on the atoll are limited to a lovely but low-key five-star hotel/resort near the main village, or an adventurer's South Sea paradise on a remote lagoon islet, consisting of five primitive beach bungalows hidden under the palms


MOOREA

The most dramatic of the French Polynesian islands, Moorea lies only a few miles northwest of Tahiti (10 minutes by air or under an hour by ferry from Papeete). The little tropical island gem is characterised by spectacular bays, white sandy beaches and towering craggy volcanic peaks that form a jagged central spine, reflected in the surrounding crystalline lagoons.

About 8,000 people live happily on Moorea, but there are no towns, or even villages, as such. Settlements offering clusters of shops and stalls line the 40-mile long (64km) paved road that encircles the island, giving access to the few sightseeing opportunities and lovely beaches. The best beaches are between the Moorea Village Hotel and the Hotel Beachcomber, and near the Sofitel Ia Ora near the airport.

All sorts of water activities and excursions are offered on the island, as well as several land-based activities like hikes and mountain safaris.

A fun way to explore the island is to rent a scooter or bicycle, or join the locals on the 'trucks' that form the island's public transport system. A 'must see' is the panoramic view of Cook and Opunohu bays from the Roto Nui (Belvedere) viewpoint, the Paopao open air market, and a distillery where exotic liqueurs are produced from the local pineapple, vanilla, mango and coconut crops.

CONTACTS:
Lastly and I hope you don't need it, but should you require consular help - here are the details
Tahiti Tourisme, Papeete, Tahiti, Tel: +689 505 700 or www.tahiti-tourisme.com
Embassy of France, Washington DC, United States: +1 202 944 6000
Embassy of France, London, United Kingdom: +44 (0)20 7073 1000
Embassy of France, Ottawa, Canada: +1 613 789 1795
Embassy of France, Canberra, Australia: +61 (0)2 6216 0100
Embassy of France, Pretoria, South Africa: +27 (0)12 425 1600
Embassy of France, Dublin, Ireland: +353 (0)1 277 5000
Embassy of France, Wellington, New Zealand: +64 (0)4 384 2555
United States Embassy, Suva, Fiji (also responsible for French Polynesia): +679 314 466
United Kingdom Honorary Consul, Pirae, Tahiti: +689 42 00 50
Canadian High Commission, Wellington, New Zealand (also responsible for French Polynesia): +64 (0)4 473 9577
Australian Consulate-General, Noumea, New Caledonia (also responsible for French Polynesia): +687 272 414
New Zealand Honorary Consulate, Papeete, Tahiti: +680 424544
Emergencies: 15

AIRPORTS:
Fa'aa International Airport (PPT)
Location: The airport is located about three miles (6km) from Papeete on the island of Tahiti. Time: GMT -10. Contacts: Tel: +689 866 096. Transfer to the city: In the parking lot opposite the terminal building passengers can hop aboard a 'Le Truck', an open-top taxi-van, which provides public transport in Tahiti, and ride into town for a fare of around US$1. Taxis are available but cost around US$10 for the trip into town. It is worth making sure that the fare is agreed on up front before setting off in a taxi. Car rental: Several car rental agencies operate at the airport, including Hertz, Avis and Europcar. Facilities: There is a bureaux de change, post office and bank, opening hours coinciding with the arrival of flights. The airport has two restaurants, duty free shop, tour operator desks, gift shops, pearl boutiques and a colourful local handcraft market operating in front of the terminal building. Baggage storage facilities are available. Website: www.tahiti-aeroport.pf